I've had much more success in making a "dutchman" to replace rotten wood when replacement of the whole part was impractical for some reason. Replacing the rotten parts and solving the water problem that led to the rot is the solution that has worked best. The product I used seemed very expensive, but did hold up at least as long as I was there. I did have some success (>3 years) with an epoxy system that involved first saturating the wood with a very thin liquid epoxy and then applying a thicker paste to fill the gaps. I've tried various fillers over the years both on cars and houses and they have almost all failed. Under a coat of primer and paint the repairs are not detectable. If you catch the Minwax as it hardens you can use wood chisels to do preliminary shaping of repairs, then wait till hardening in complete to finish shaping and use sandpaper to blend the repair in. I use Bondo for cars and metal and Minwax for wood. I have replaced Bondo repairs that showed separation from the surrounding wood, and have seen other Bondo repairs nearby in the same wood that had produced cracks in the latex paint film. Having used both materials, Minwax is a lot easier to sand than Bondo. The styrene monomer after reaction is going to drive the hardness of the material also. Magnesium Carbonate has a Mho's hardness of 3.5 to 4, while calcium carbonate is slightly lower at 3. Bondo and Minwax High Performance filler both use styrene monomer as the hardening agent with benzoyl peroxide as the catalyst to start the reaction.īondo uses Talc and Magnesium Carbonate, while Minwax Filler uses Talc and Calcium Carbonate.
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